Beng Mealea is one of Siem Reap’s lesser visited temples and was long so for good reason: land mines set up by the Khmer Rouge. Only a few people had visited the temple before its mines were cleared in the last decade and those who did faced a painful death if they took the wrong steps.
And while now the German government has cleared the mines and a road has been built out to it, it’s still known as one of Siem Reap’s most authentic, most untouched temples.
The early 12th-century sandstone temple has been left on its own to crumble, decay, and ultimately be taken back by nature in the way that has made Ta Prohm (“Tomb Raider” temple) so popular with photographers.
There also aren’t as many barriers built to push you along the tourist path as there are in other temples, but rubble will keep you from getting too close. Trees and limbs have grown out of any surface with enough sunlight, warping the walls of the temple.
The temple continues along farther than you first think upon entering, sprawling over the same amount of acreage as the most well-known Angkor temples. We were led by our guide through the area, stepping on stones and being careful not to catch a loose one. A layer of mossy fuzz covers nearly every surface, lighting up an otherwise drab grey with bursts of green.
It’s hard to image what it was like before its present state, when the only people to see it were locals with a death wish or Khmer Rouge soldiers rigging the area with booby traps. It’s like discovering an entirely new place.
It could have been blown up or the mines couldn’t have been cleared, keeping travelers and adventurers from experiencing a place retaken by nature. Beng Mealea almost wasn’t, but I was glad to see it for myself.
While it’s possible to take a tuk tuk out to Prasat Beng Mealea, it’s at least an hour ride, which can be rather uncomfortable. You’ll also have to find a driver willing to make the trek. I joined the Escaping the Crowds tour with Beyond Unique Escapes, which included transport out to the temple and a handful of other sites, as well as lunch.
While there were still crowds present, it was nothing like I’d experienced within the Angkor complex and I found the tour to be worthwhile. A separate pass for $5 US must be purchased for this temple outside of the standard Angkor pass.
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