The Coastal Paradise of Paracas

Described by the brochures as the “poor man’s Galapagos,” Paracas, Peru is an easy stopover for travelers heading north to Lima. Not quite ready to head back to the capital, I stayed for a day with my new travel friends to see what it was all about.

We arrived around dinnertime, quickly stashing our bags at Kokopelli before grabbing an overpriced dinner at a local restaurant. Our guide had mentioned they offer “free drinks” to Peru Hop travelers, but there’s no such thing as free.

Thankfully, there were also cheap drinks at our hostel bar, so we enjoyed a post-dinner round before calling it a night. I tucked into my tiny, bunkroom shared with three snoring guys.

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The next morning, my group boarded a boat for our Ballestas Islands tour, the natural preserve that is likened to the Galapagos. We got splashed on the 30 minute ride out to the islands, stopping briefly for our guide to describe what we were seeing.

He spoke in Spanish and English, but left out some details in English, making me use my limited vocabulary to mentally translate. We saw a form in the sand described as a candelabra or cactus. It’s open to interpretation and resembles the petroglyphs I’ve seen elsewhere in the world. On the two hour tour, we saw penguins, seals, and bright red crabs.

Back in town, I packed up my bags and took the opportunity to wander around town. It felt very different in daylight, with a promenade along the water featuring colorful boats as well as touristy seafood restaurants where waiters would try to entice you with menus.

I saw a number of restaurants that looked good, but ultimately chose one randomly. They tended to have the same menu and charge “Western” prices, but are still reasonable. I had a massive feast of fried fish and yucca. There are definitely cheaper places with fresh seafood, but you might have to get further out of town.

But the sightseeing wasn’t over yet. After grabbing a few snacks for our bus ride, we got back on our Peru Hop steed for a tour of the Paracas National Preserve on our way back to Lima.

First established in 1975, it is made up of over 3,000 square kilometers and is home to many of the same creatures we saw in the Ballestas Islands. The wind roared as we looked over Playa Roja, known for its signature red beaches against bright blue water.

I could have easily spent more than 24 hours just lounging by the beach or pool in Paracas, chowing down on seafood, but my time in Peru had run out. So with that, my journey ended as the bus pulled into the city where I began.

If You Go

There aren’t many traditional “sights” in Paracas, except for the Julio C. Tello Site Museum and a few additional archaeological sites within the preserve. This town is a great place to experience adventure, including ATV and bike rentals, boat trips, and beach days. 

The Ballestas Islands Tour with Paracas Explorer is $15 USD and runs at 8 and 10 am. There are plenty of operators in town, likely cheaper ones, but we booked through PeruHop.

This is a nice place to splurge on a hotel room. Los Frayles comes recommended for its ensuite rooms and pool. Despite my room that I didn’t care for, Kokopelli had a thriving bar and pool as well as a tour desk and daily breakfast. We received discounts as PeruHop passengers.