It was 2012 when I was last in Vienna, Austria as a part of a month-long backpacking trip that brought me to a conference in the wine region of Porto, Portugal, all around Germany, and to a few places in Austria. I remember being exhausted by the rapid pace of my journey and being unprepared for the cold fall weather.
I mostly stuck to my hostel and the Naschmarkt, apart from a few visits to museums. I don’t remember anything special about any meal I had. So when I got invited on a work trip to Vienna timed around the Christmas markets, I saw this as my opportunity to see the city in a better way. I also felt like it was a reward for my decade of hard work and hustling as a travel writer.
Here’s what I did differently as an older, maybe wiser traveler.
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I really enjoyed the food
As someone who spent years as a picky eater, many of my travel regrets involve what I didn’t try. This time around, I didn’t turn down anything. I went to the neo-Gasthaus restaurants that serve traditional Viennese dishes with modern interpretations including stewed lentils with speck, a soured milk soup, and, of course, schnitzel.
It reminded me of what’s happening in the United States, with these hearty, traditional farming meals-turned chic restaurant fare. I learned about Vienna’s wine scene, with hundreds of vineyards right outside the city limits. I drank varieties I’d never heard of (and couldn’t pronounce) and unpasteurized beer from the Czech Republic.
I slept in luxury
I recall thinking how nice it was to have a private room at Wombats Hostel in Vienna on my last trip. And while it certainly was, nothing compared with staying at two of Vienna’s most luxurious hotels: the new Rosewood Vienna and the iconic Hotel Sacher.
The Rosewood is located inside Mozart’s former home and has modern details with elevated luxury. The top-level restaurant has incredible food and views of the city. The Hotel Sacher is the type of experience you need to have in Vienna, with lavish breakfasts (that include the famous cake) and proximity to the opera.
I learned about the long-running maker history
I’ve been interested in antiques since I was a teenager, but my obsession has definitely increased in the last few years. During this trip, I popped into a few antique stores and went on a shopping tour. It brought us to the stores that started as court artisans for the Habsburg dynasty. I picked up a glass from Lobmeyr, who made chandeliers for the Kennedy Center, and R. Horn, maker of fine leather goods.
I packed appropriately
Perhaps the most important change is that I actually brought the necessary clothing for a winter trip to Austria. I knew it would be cold, with a chance for snow, so I brought two coats, multiple hats, and gloves. I had an umbrella, which was essential during one particularly rainy night.
I also dressed up for a night at the opera. I borrowed a green jumpsuit from my sister and a Burberry Shawl and mother-of-pearl purse from my grandmother.
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