This time last year, and yes it’s taken all year to get a post out, I took my first trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. I’d heard great things about the city, especially from foodies, but until then had never made it. When I got invited by Montelobos, a mezcal company, on the heels of Dia de los Muertos, it was an immediate yes.
Getting there was a bit of a struggle as I had a tight connection in Mexico City, but I made it to my just in time to fall asleep. But when I woke up, I got to explore in the daylight as the sun hit the old buildings and colorful decorations.
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The main event had already passed, but you wouldn’t know it wandering around town. Each doorway was covered in marigolds with skulls, paper banners, and makeshift altars around town. The company I traveled with even set up a parade with traditional attire and music.
Like the namesake town for tequila, Oaxaca is the gateway for mezcal distilleries. It’s an easy day trip, where you can drive yourself out there or even board a bottle-shaped bus. Not all distilleries are open for tours, but several are. Oaxaca is also well located for outdoors day trips including to the ruins at Monte Alban and the Hierve el Agua nature preserve.
If you want to sip mezcal without leaving town, there are several bars that specialize in the spirit. During my visit, one spot in town, Sabina Save, had just been named one of the World’s Best Bars. I had a delicious cocktail there and quickly found out why.
Some of my best meals were the most simple, including a coffee down the street from my hotel, where I made a new friend (pictured) and a simple stand near the city market selling sandwiches and tlayudas, a tasty pizza-like dish. Next time I’d definitely join a food tour to sample other local treats.
I enjoyed shopping at La Chicharra Ceramica, Calzado Artesanal Ndavaa, and the Colectivo Xicotencatl art gallery and browsing the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. I picked up a print of a mezcal bottle full of skulls as a souvenir.
Since so much of my time was booked, I didn’t get to try all of the restaurants and bars I would have liked, but that just means I’ll have to come back. In Situ Mezcalería, Restaurante Alfonsina, Selva, Cafe Brujula, Muss Cafe, and Bar Illegal are all on the list.
I stayed at Otro Hotel, a small and fairly new hotel with daily breakfast on the rooftop and in-room tubs. But there are several excellent and stylish htoels in town, including Casa Antonieta, Flava Hotel, and City Centro by Marriott.
Have you been to Oaxaca?
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